Travelling abroad gluten free
This June I was faced with the daunting task of sticking to
my gluten free diet on holiday where I don’t speak the local language. We were
heading to Cerbere, a small village on the border of France and Spain, for a week.
Before setting off I printed off the gluten free passport
gluten free dining cards for Spanish and French, along with a detailed list of green, amber and red
French foods. This was downloaded from the French Coeliac society website,
called AFDIAG, and I found it by searching ‘Interdit’ (forbidden) in their
search bar. I also packed the Spanish and French phrase books.
We set off from Liverpool to Carcassonne early in the morning. At Liverpool Airport we
went to
Frankie and Bennys for
breakfast. I ordered bacon and eggs on toast, without the toast. When it
arrived it came on toast! There was no time to get a new one made before the
flight so I set off hungry, and ate my emergency peanut butter sandwich on the
flight.
On our
first day we saw the sights of Carcassonne and ate lunch in a restaurant in the
main square of the medieval city. This is Carcassonne:
I had a duck only
cassoulet- a traditional dish of white beans, sausage and duck. I chose the duck only
version because I thought the sausage would not be suitable. When ordering we
asked if the waiter spoke English and he sent over one who did. I told him I
couldn’t eat gluten and presented my piece of paper. The girl next to us in the
restaurant was English and spoke French; she offered to translate things for
us. The waiter seemed to understand and took the list off to show the chef. He
returned and confirmed he thought it was ok. The cassoulet was delicious and I
suffered no symptoms from eating it.
Next we
went to a French supermarket,
Giante Casino to buy
supplies. In the Bio section, which means organic there was a small gluten free
section. I got some gluten free pasta, which was very good, just the same as
that from the UK. I also got some gluten free bread-
Schaer Rustico,
which is from Germany. It was a long-life rustic fibre loaf, which tasted very
good.
We ate in for dinner-
a salad with some Parma ham and cheese.
For
breakfast my favourite is avocado on toast, which went very well with the
Rustico bread. On the second day we went down the Spanish coast stopping off at
some of the seaside towns. We went for lunch at a tapas restaurant called
El Racó de Port in the town of Llança.
This is the restaurant:
The waiter seemed to understand the Spanish version of
the gluten free passport. Everything was suitable except for the things that
were deep fried, and the Spanish omelette. The meal was very nice; we had
sardines, manchego, Spanish ham, patas bravas and more. In the evening we ate
in and had pasta.
We ate lunch in a small village called Cateil/ Castel at a restaurant called
Relais St Martin. I had the plat de assaitte de jour (dish of the day). This
consisted of a melon and ham salad with roast vegetables, ham, cheese, fries
and aioli (garlic mayo) it really was delicious. The women was very impressed
with the gluten free passport I showed her and understood it well. In the
evening we ate at a restaurant called
Amphitryon on the seafront of Collioure. The restaurant was very busy, I showed the
waitress the piece of paper and ordered Paella, which she said was ‘just rice’
so would be ok. The paella was a bit tasteless and disappointing. I tried to
order dessert but it was all too much for the waitress. Her section was full of
customers annoyed by her slow service and forgetfulness. She had obviously just
left the restaurant to cry (rubbing eyes, makeup smudged) and I asked if the
crème catalane (similar to a crème brulee) was gluten free. She said it wasn’t,
I asked her what was and she suggested the profiteroles or apple tart. I knew
neither of theses would be so I decided not to have anything. This made me
worry my main course hadn’t been gluten free either but I had no obvious side
effects from it.
The next
day we explored the neighbouring towns and stopped for lunch in Port Vendres at
a place called
La Fringale. This is the view from the restaurant:
I had the salad Estivale, which was melon and ham again- very nice. Much to my
excitement we found a place in Collioure called
Framboise Chocolat that had a sign outside saying ‘biscuits sans gluten’. The first time we tried
to go in it was closed but in the end I managed to get some biscuits. I bought
some pistachio and some chocolate biscuits. The were very good, particularly
the pistachio ones as the chocolate ones were a little burnt. They were hard
biscuits, similar to biscotti, which is traditional for the region. We ate in
for dinner, creating our own cassoulet, which was very good.
The next day it was raining so we
decided to explore the city of Perpignan. This is Perpignan in the rain:
We had lunch in a restaurant in the
central square. Again I ordered a salad, presenting my piece of paper. The
salad was supposed to be Roquefort and walnut but the walnuts were removed
leaving only lettuce and Roquefort. This was a disappointment and very boring.
Perpignan had a very nice market going on the day we visited- Saturday. One of
the bread stalls had gluten free bread, made primarily of quinoa. The loaf was
quite dense and tough, but tasted nice. In the evening we went to Les Clos de
Paulilles restaurant and vineyard between Port Vendres and Banyuls sur Mer. We
arrived at 6.40 but they weren’t serving dinner until 7.30 so we had to spend
the time trying and buying vast quantities of wine. The menu was set, with a
choice of two or three things for each course. Although they didn’t speak much
English the staff were very thorough in their discussion. To start we had a
tapas plate, most of which I could eat with the exception of a few things on
bread. Then I had sea bass with pak choi, which was delicious. For dessert I
had cherry soup, which was very nice. Overall, the meal was very good.
That
concludes the first of my two gluten free holiday blog posts. You may be
wondering why I’d finish after 5 days when I was only going for a week, you must be forgetting the French
air traffic control strike!